Newton, Wisconsin – Omega Fields, Inc. has joined the popular photo sharing site Instagram. We will be posting photos of the Parelli Natural Horsemanship tour stops, other special events from our Ambassadors and Spokespeople, retail partner locations, our own and customer animal photos, so join in the fun and follow us on Instagram! Simply use the hashtag #omegafields when posting photos on your Instagram account.
We will also be creating contests to give away a month’s supply of product by tracking posts with the #omegafields. And finally, we will have a contest at each Parelli event for those who post a picture of themselves with Pat or Linda Parelli or our Omega Fields booth, just use the #omegafields and post to your Instagram account.
Newton, Wisconsin – Omega Fields, Inc. is proud to announce the creation of our new YouTube channel (http://www.youtube.com/OmegaFieldsInc ). We’ll be posting product videos ((http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iclcWjRylps), behind the scenes video of our photo shoots for new products, most recently our new goat supplement, Omega Kid & Goat Care. There will be video testimonials and an inside look into the competitions and events taken by our Spokespeople and Ambassadors around the country as well as our RFDtv commercials.
Please subscribe to our channel to join in the fun and see interesting aspects and find information about the products and company you love!
Newton, Wisconsin – Omega Fields, Inc. is proud to announce our continued relationship with the Missouri Fox Trotters Horse Breed Association (MFTHBA). “Since 2010 Omega Fields has participated with the MFTHBA membership of approx. 4,500 people, in providing nutritional articles from our equine science consultant, Dr. Kris Hiney, as well as offering MFTHBA members a 5% discount on all Omega Fields products”” says Sean Moriarty – President of Omega Fields, Inc.
“The Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association has greatly appreciated our continued relationship with Omega Fields,” said MFTHBA President, Dr. Joyce Graening. “Omega Fields’ focus on quality products and superior customer service makes it a great match to the values and principles of the MFTHBA. Our members greatly appreciate their support of the Missouri Fox Trotting Horse”. An further, “Our partnership is based on a desire by both organizations to continue to educate horseman on the benefits of paying attention to nutrition as a core principal in having a more satisfying experience with your horse “says Moriarty. MFTHBA communicates with its members through e-mails, newsletters and a semi-monthly magazine called Fox Trot U. Information about MFTHBA can be found at their website at; www.mfthba.com
About the Missouri Fox Trotting Horse Breed Association (MFTHBA)
Fox Trotters originated in Missouri as ranch horses bred for smooth riding gaits as well as stamina for mountain riding and heavy ranch and farm work. They are known for versatile athleticism, the naturally smooth flat walk and fox trot gaits, and an endearing, trainable personality. Since 1948, the MFTHBA has worked to promote the Missouri Fox Trotter and support a registry for horses that meet the breed standards of gait and conformation. Today there are more than 97,000 registered Fox Trotters worldwide.
Newton, Wisconsin – Omega Fields, Inc. is excited to announce our new distribution relationship with Canadian Centurion Supply located at; PO Box 21116, 10 Humber Street, Stratford, ON N5A 7V4. “Omega Fields will market “Omega Horseshine®”, our award winning flax based omega-3 nutritional supplement for horses, and the flagship product of our brand in Canada as “Horseshine” says Sean Moriarty – President of Omega Fields, Inc.
Our new relationship kicks off at “The Mane Event” in Reed Deer, AB on Apr 26-28, 2013. “Horseshine” products will be available to consumers at the show courtesy of Canadian Centurion Supply’s retail dealer called “The Horse Store” located at 2612 Kensington Road NW, Calgary, AB, T2N 3S5, 403-270-7700. After “The Mane Event” horse show, Canadian Centurion Supply will begin distributing “Horseshine” to retailers across Canada. In addition we will also be offering the “Horseshine” products at our booth with the Parelli Heart & Soul Tour in London ONT June 8-9, 2013 through another of Canadian Centurion Supply’s retail dealers, Wilson Tack and Veterinary Supplies.
Newton, Wisconsin – The backyard poultry market has been a steadily growing focus for Omega Fields and we are very pleased to support key players communicating with people with a passion for chickens such as Lisa Steele author of the blog “Fresh Eggs Daily”, says Moriarty – President-Omega Fields.
Lisa writes a regular blog called “Fresh Eggs Daily” found on her website; www.fresh-eggs-daily.com. Lisa says about her mission and focus, Fresh Eggs Daily® is dedicated to inspiring readers to live a simple, natural farm life and raise their chickens as naturally as possible. Most of our readers raise backyard flocks, although some haven’t taken the plunge yet and are still in the ‘research’ stage. Others follow because our photos and stories recall memories of raising chickens when they were young or of visiting their grandparent’s farm as children. We attract novices as well as more experienced chicken keepers, challenging them all to raise their flocks to be the happiest and healthiest they can be. In addition to giving tips and advice on raising backyard flocks, we also share DIY projects using repurposed materials, vegetable and herb gardening tips, making all natural products for the home and coop, and recipes using fresh eggs and homegrown produce.
Omega Fields sponsors an ad on her blog site, offers special coupons and contests for her Facebook and blog readers as well as provides helpful research content that Lisa shares with her eager audience.
Newton, Wisconsin – The backyard poultry market has been a steadily growing focus for Omega Fields and we are very pleased to support key players communicating with people with a passion for chickens such as Kathy Marmino aka “The Chicken Chick”, says Moriarty – President-Omega Fields.
Kathy writes a regular blog called “The Chicken Chick” found on her website; www.the-chicken-chick.com. Kathy says about her mission and focus, “I routinely refer my Facebook audience to my blog for the information and articles that may be of assistance to them in caring for their chickens. The focus of my blog is informing and educating readers on topics relevant to their pet chickens such as: how hens make eggs, how to make a poultry nipple waterer, chicken first aid kit essentials, cooking with eggs, etc. My background as an attorney has uniquely prepared me to ensure that thorough research is done and proper citations are provided to substantiate information I share, which I believe lends credibility to my work and loyalty from my readers.”
Omega Fields sponsors an ad on her blog site, offers special coupons and contests for her Facebook and blog readers as well as provides helpful research content that Kathy shares with her eager audience.
Newton, Wisconsin – Omega Fields, Inc. announced it will begin their first ever “Pin It to Win It” contests on the popular social media site Pinterest, beginning in March 2013. Participating in the contest requires no purchase and is very easy to enter. To participate in the contests just make sure to log onto the Omega Fields Pinterest page at; http://pinterest.com/omegafieldss/ and follow our ‘Omega Fields Contest’ board. Please follow our fantastic boards and invite us to be a part of your community boards as well! You’ll find interesting and informative boards related to horse, dog, chicken and goat nutrition, great recipes using flaxseed, educational tips and articles and detailed information about Omega Fields’ products.
Sean F. Moriarty, President of Omega Fields, Inc., said, “We have seen an a great response from our customers through social media and feel it is an effective way of interacting and offering those customers additional value for showing an interest in our products.”
Written By Janice Spaulding, founder of Goat School
It is a thrill and an honor to be able to write and share my goat knowledge with the subscribers of the Omega Fields Newsletters! Having raised goats for 25 years, and suffered through all the trial and errors, my husband, Ken and I, have accumulated a vast knowledge of the nuances of raising several varieties of goats including dairy, meat, and fiber.
In 2004 I came up with an idea to answer all of the questions we were continually getting, not only from new goat owners, but also from seasoned breeders. Goat School® was born. We started on a cold November afternoon, lasted for about 3 hours, and included 12 people. It has now grown into a three day event and peaked at 112 attendees.
Over the past eight years the most often asked question has been: “What type of goat would you recommend for us”? There are so many things to take into consideration. This article will touch on the different types of goats, and, can help you decide in what direction you would like to take your goat raising experience.
First things first; what are the types of goats? There are three; meat, fiber, and of course the dairy breeds.
Goats in general, are friendly, inquisitive, nosy, loving, charming creatures that will return to you as much love as you give to them. A goat that is well socialized, well nourished, and well cared for, will be a friend for life. They love to help with chores, (try changing a light bulb on a ladder with 4 or 5 goats around and you’ll see what I mean!) and, if given a chance, they will happily clean out your garden or flower beds!
MEAT GOATS: All goats have goat meat but not all goats are meat goats. You can harvest meat from all of the different breeds of goats, but there are some breeds that have been raised specifically for meat. Meat breeds are bigger and more muscled. They tend to be very large, statuesque animals. Some breed names include Boer, Kiko, Spanish, Savanahs, Myotonic, and Arapawa.
Because of their size, Boer bucks have been crossed with other breeds to inject “hybrid vigor”. Hybrid vigor presents the possibility of obtaining a genetically superior offspring by combining the primal virtues of its parents. We used our Boer Buck “Rocky” to breed some of our Angora does. The offspring were growing at a rate of ¾ of a pound per day! It took no time at all for the kids of these matings to outgrow their moms. It was quite comical to see these very large 2 month old kids trying to get under their small statured dams to nurse.
Meat goats because of their mature size and rapid growth might give the impression that they require large amounts of feed, nothing could be further from the truth! We found that one pound of a balanced goat grain per full grown doe was sufficient! By providing your meat goat with a good healthy diet of browse, hay, clean water, minerals, vitamins, and a small amount of grain guarantees they will thrive, produce great offspring, develop healthy muscling, and become a good foundation stock for your growing herd!
FIBER GOATS: Fiber breeds require more hands on work than meat breeds. As we raised Angora goats for over 20 years, I will do a little “ruminating” on that subject. Angoras are the only goats who produce hair.
Because they grow about an inch of hair a month, Angoras need to be sheared twice a year. We always sheared in the spring right before kidding season, (this worked out great because it alleviated messy, ruined fleece because of kidding fluids) and again in the fall, just before breeding time. As male goats in rut tend to be a little smelly, shearing before breeding kept the fleeces clean and odor free.
Angoras need plenty of protein to grow all of that beautiful mohair fleece. A lack of protein in their diet causes lack-luster, thin, unattractive coats. As the mohair is the end product for these goats, you must feed them properly. Keep in mind that the extra protein also causes fast growing hoofs which may need to be trimmed more often than most other types of goats.
DAIRY GOATS: Milk producing goats are certainly the most work intensive of all breeds but continue to be my favorites. I love the twice a day interaction with them. They are friendly, happy go lucky animals that can start each and every day with a smile. Dairy goats need to be milked at least once a day, and more commonly twice a day, so be prepared for that commitment!
Over the years, we’ve had Oberhaslies, Nubians, Sables, Toggenburgs, Saanans, and Alpines. There are other great milk breeds out there besides the ones I mentioned. My recommendation before you purchase any type of milker is that you taste their milk. All of the milks are great, but some taste different than others. For instance a lot of folks dislike Oberhaslie milk and others simply love it!
Another caveat when you are purchasing milkers for hand milking; try milking the goat! Make sure your hands fit their teats. Some goats have big teats and others really small ones, so this is important. We always recommended that newbies buy their first two goats as milking adults. Get a feel for it with a “seasoned professional” doe, and go from there.
And of course I have to mention “pet goats”. These come in many sizes and shapes. Two neutered males (wethers) make great buddies and can be taught to pull carts or go packing with you! Nigerian Dwarf goats are the cutest, most comical little characters that can keep you well entertained.
Along with all the love, fun, and enjoyment you can receive from your goats, comes one problem that is not often discussed; what to do when you have a goat in your herd, of any breed, that is churlish, difficult to deal with, mean, nasty, or a general pain in the neck? These goats need to go where they will best be served, an appointment with the processor, or as we have come to call it “freezer camp”! I realize that folks can have considerable sums of money tied up in a goat and have a hard time justifying sending them to the processor, but, owning animals is a responsibility and part of that responsibility is to not pass your problems on to an unsuspecting individual. Please do not pass an unwieldy goat on to an unsuspecting new owner! I can’t say this strong enough, a difficult goat needs to go in the freezer. How will you feel if you sell one of these unpredictable animals to someone and the new owner gets hurt?
Why do some goats, especially bucks, develop these problems? Usually it is because the buck was kept by himself. Goats are herd animals and need the companionship of other goats to keep their healthy attitudes. A buck who has a buddy, either another buck (it doesn’t matter what breed) or a neutered male (wether) will keep the buck occupied, exercised, and most of all friendly.
When kept alone, a buck will be constantly seeking out a play mate. When you go into his pen, you automatically become his play mate! A game of head butt with a full grown buck will be memorable to say the least.
Want to know more about goats, come to Goat School®! Goat School® is a comprehensive learning experience! You will not only learn about goats, but you will also make invaluable new friends, meet like-minded folks, and build networking opportunities.
Visit our web site www.goatschool.com and see when and where the next Goat School is!
We have a great book available with lots of information about raising goats. The “Goat School® Manual” is a compilation of some of the information from our Goat School® classes. For more information click on the Goat School Shop tab at www.goatschool.com
Hopefully you will never have to worry about a chick with spraddle leg ( also called splayed leg), but as is the case with everything else chicken-related, it's always best to be prepared ...just in case.
Spraddle Leg is a condition that a chick is either born with or develops within the first few hours of life whereby one or both legs slip out to the sides making them unable to stand or walk.
Spraddle leg can occur during incubation or the hatching process if the temperature is too high or varies too much during the incubation period or if the hatch is difficult for the chick. A less common cause can be a vitamin deficiency. The more common cause is an incubator or brooder floor that is too slippery for the chick to grip, which causes the legs to slide to one side. As a result the chick's legs muscles don't develop properly because of the lack of traction.
To try and prevent this condition, a sheet of paper towel or rubber shelf liner should always be put in the incubator just before the lockdown.
This will give the newly hatched chicks something to grip onto.
In the brooder box, newspaper should NEVER be used as the only floor covering. Especially when it gets wet, it is too slippery and the main cause of spraddled leg. Instead, I cover a few layers of newspaper with a sheet of shelf liner. The rubber surface, just as in the incubator, provides a nice textured surface for little feet.
I change the newspapers and shelf liner out as needed, rinsing the shelf liner off and reusing it, and after a few days, add a layer of pine shavings on top.
Spraddle leg is easily correctable, but if not addressed quickly, the chick will not be able to get to feed and water and can die.
What you need to do is hobble the chick's legs. The easiest way is to cut a thin piece of vet wrap (approximately 1/4" wide and 5" long) and loosely wrap it around each leg, connecting the ends in the middle, about an inch apart, in sort of a figure eight.
The chick's legs should be about normal width apart when extended. If the chick can't stand up, you can make them a bit wider apart for better balance, but then bring them a bit closer together each day.
You can wrap some First Aid Tape around the middle to keep it secured.
Then be sure the chick has something it can easily walk on like paper towel, a bath towel or shelf liner. At first the chick will have trouble standing up, but soon will be able to get around. Ensure the chick has easy access to feed and water, but a shallow water dish with marbles or small stones in it is required so the chick doesn't fall in and drown. Also it's best to keep the chick separate from other chicks at least until she learns to stand so she won't be trampled.
At first it is helpful to support the chick and just let her try to stand and get used to having her legs underneath her. Helping her get her balance will be beneficial and hasten her recovery.
Unwrap the legs and check the chick's progress once or twice a day. Leave the hobble on until the chick can stand and walk on its own. This could take from a few days to up to a week. You should see results fairly quickly and soon your chick will be up and about.
Then make a solemn vow - no more chicks on newspaper!
At first glance, it seems obvious – but there exists a subtle mystery of sorts at play. We know the wall is firmly attached to the coffin bone – yet it grows downward at the same time. Experts, including David Hood, Robert Bowker, Pete Ramey and others, agree that there is a paradox, and provide independent, similar explanations, while also agreeing that although we have a pretty good idea of how it all works, nobody has proved it yet. The explanations are quite plausible, but they are not etched in stone. KC LaPierre explains it well; what follows is based upon Mr. LaPierre’s work, but remember, this is just my “take” on the matter.
As you know, the components involved with the hoof wall are the coffin bone, laminar layer, inner wall, outer wall and coronary band. We have evidence that the outer wall grows down from the coronary, as demonstrated by the downward "movement" of the scar left from a popped abscess at the coronary band. And while we can’t see it, we also know that in a healthy hoof there is a very tight attachment between all those components. The sticky part is understanding how the wall can move downward while at the same time remain locked to the coffin bone by the laminar connection.
Good question. The consensus explanation seems to be that the inner wall,
firmly attached to the coffin bone by the laminar layer, has two components: loosely packed tubules, originating from a corium at the coronary, and a thick, dense "glue" referred to as intertubular horn -- an immensely strong substance that fills the inner wall, completely encapsulating its tubules. The outer wall is likewise constructed of tubules growing groundward and held together with intertubular horn, but its tubules are very densely packed.
This leads us to two important concepts: first, that intertubular horn, while very dense and tight, is actually a fluid (more on this later). One might consider the inner wall as being composed of intertubular horn with tubules embedded therein to keep that horn in place. That construction makes the inner wall extremely strong and shock-resistant. Thus a primary function of the inner wall is to provide strength for weight support as well as shock absorption for protection for everything inside and above the hoof itself. Second, the outer wall, composed mostly of tubules with enough intertubular horn to hold it together, presents an almost impenetrable shield against external damage. The ancient Greeks couldn't have asked for a more efficient shield material, even though they did pretty well with what they had.
Back to the intertubular horn being a fluid, and enter a physics concept
called "fluid dynamics"; it says that a fluid in motion is essentially
motionless at its base, and the farther away from the base you go, the
faster it moves. It's the way rivers work -- the water's velocity is greatest at the surface, diminishes as you go deeper. In the hoof, that property of the
intertubular horn means that while the inner wall’s base remains almost motionless, attached to the coffin bone by the laminae, its outer surface (abutting the outer wall which is moving downward) is moving right along with the outer wall, at exactly the same velocity, albeit very slowly. Intertubular horn cells initiate from the laminar layer, and grow outward, perpendicular to the wall surface and filling the inner wall’s tubular space, but as they reach the junction between inner and outer walls, they have begun to move downward, in parallel with the outer wall’s movement, thus keeping everything smoothly locked together.
Think of it: outer wall resembles a broom -- stiff and strong, made of
tubules, constantly growing longer, forming an almost impenetrable shield – while inner wall performs the task of keeping everything locked to the coffin bone yet allowing the outer wall's downward growth at the same time. The outer wall corium, located in the coronary band, has just one job, constantly generating new cells. The inner wall’s cells actually have two sources -- some developing at the coronary that generate the tubules, and others developing at the laminar surface, generating the intertubular horn.
Incidentally, I'll add an interesting side note: As long as everything is flowing smoothly and normally, the hoof will have a smooth, even outer wall -- no ridges or striations. But any disturbance in the evenness of growth between the two layers will show up as a "glitch" at the outside surface – trauma to the inner layer, such as with a laminitic attack for example, or perhaps a sharp enough strike on the outer wall surface will interrupt its rate of contribution of intertubular horn to the outer wall as it grows downward, resulting in a “fold” in the outer surface, hence those rings we sometimes see running side-to-side across the toe of the hoof, and it explains why they can and do grow out. In addition, the inner wall, thanks to heavy keratinizing of the intertubular horn, is quite waterproof. But when the inner wall "thins out" due to some trauma, it loses a certain amount of its tightness against leakage, allowing some blood to find its way out, showing up eventually at the bottom of the hoof at trim time as those disheartening red areas we sometimes see. They may also indicate a trauma in the past, but do not necessarily indicate that the trauma is actually past. In addition, it's my personal opinion that toe-first landings that send shock waves through the entire hoof are also responsible for damage to the inner wall's intertubular horn that allows some adjacent blood vessels to rupture, the results being the blood spots we see weeks later at ground level during a trim.
Thus, the simplest, undetailed answer to the question, “what makes the hoof wall grow”, may be that:
The wall is a two-layered structure: the outer wall grows downward, and consists of densely packed tubules with enough intertubular horn from the inner wall to hold the tubules together, while the inner wall grows outward, and consists of intertubular horn with just enough of its own tubules to hold the horn together. The seam between the two layers is an active place, where the descending outer wall “pulls” the outward-growing intertubular horn downward as they flow together toward the ground. Thus, as long as their coriums are functional, both inner and outer walls' growth is guaranteed, and their functions of support and protection can exist because of the fluid characteristics of the intertubular horn. It is truly a remarkably efficient design.